Day 3: Niagara Falls, Ontario, to Syracuse, New York
Distance: 88 miles
On the radio: “Come on Eileen!” by Dexy’s Midnight Runners (1982)
Highlights: Even a short overnight visit with friends – and their five rescue cats – can deliver an interesting and fun travel experience. I arrived to the home of Laura and Cabrina shortly after dusk, just in time to head out to Kelley’s Bar & Restaurant for a meal. Laura and I worked at the Fort Pierce / Port St. Lucie Tribune together way, way back in the 1800s (actually, 1992-1994).
After dinner, I got the $2 tour of Tipperary Hill, an Irish neighborhood settled mainly by the immigrant builders of the Erie Canal. This included a driveby of Coleman’s Authentic Irish Pub, owned by the town patriarch, Peter Coleman. His father, also Peter, opened the pub (which includes a tiny leprechaun door) inside a lovely cottage in 1933.
Literally a stone’s throw away, at the intersection of Milton Avenue and Tompkins Street, I am further regaled by the priceless tale of the upside down traffic light.
Installed circa 1925, this light was repeatedly vandalized by Irish youth (or, some say, maniacal leprechauns) who couldn’t stomach the idea of British red sitting atop Irish green. The rock throwing finally stopped when the town council agreed to turn the light upside down (or right side finally up?). And it’s been directing traffic that way ever since. There’s even a Stone Throwers Café nearby!
Back at the manse, Cabrina continued the story telling with an epic account from her women’s football league days back in California. In one memorable game, Cabrina, the team’s center, repeatedly knocked the opposition’s nose tackle on her ass. Over and over and over again, Cabrina simply would toss her aside. The disconsolate woman ultimately retreated to the sidelines, where her coach tried to provide some much needed comfort.
On one play, Cabrina recalled seeing the woman’s necklace. It was simple, with only two initials: a “Q” and an “L.” Now how many women do you know with the initials “Q” and “L”? That’s right! It was QUEEN LATIFAH!
Many years later, Cabrina’s old coach just happened to be at an entertainment industry event where Queen Latifah, now a big star, was present. He summoned the courage to go up to her, introduced himself, and then asked if she remembered playing in a football game years earlier.
Her reply (and I paraphrase): “That’s where I got a major ass whooping!”
And that, my friends, is a GREAT story.
All that remained that hilarious evening was to get some shut-eye – which could be somewhat of a challenge in a home full of rescued felines. One had escaped earlier that evening and had to be corralled. Another left a little regurgitated present on the floor next to my bed. A third blocked my exit from the basement with its virulent stare, while a fourth was perched high above my bed, ready to launch at any moment. I have no idea where the fifth one was, or if all of these encounters could actually have been attributed to a single cat. When I awoke, a mere four trembling hours later, they had all vanished. I checked my body for claw marks and signs of other forms of penetration. What really happened that night? I may never know. That basement was like my own personal Area 51.
“How’d you sleep?” Laura asked.
“Do you know of any good diners?” was all I could reply.
As awesome hosts, Laura and Cabrina saved the best for last. We drove across town to an area where a now defunct Carrier Corp. plant (with more than 1,200 employees) once stood. Here, tucked away in a nondescript industrial lot behind a Valvoline station, was a little standalone structure with a jammed parking lot: Rise N Shine Diner.
All I’m going to say about this place is, “What an inventive, creative menu” and “Yum!” You can read the inspirational story of Danielle, the owner.
Stomach full. Hugs and best wishes exchanged. It’s on to Cooperstown.
